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Tripod joints are the 'inner' joints of most transverse mounted vehicle drive shafts. They provide a mechanical means of allowing the drive shaft's length to vary & for the shaft's angle to change without loss of drive. This is required due to the fact that as the vehicle's suspension is compressed the distance between the wheel and the diff or gearbox reduces. Tripod joints are usually relatively simple to strip down though its important to be aware of all the wearing surfaces and have the knowledge to inspect all the components correctly. Tripod joints, like any joint within a drive train can be the source of abnormal noise & in order to be able to eliminate the component from your inspections a thorough inspection needs to be performed. Follow me through this short video covering the strip down, full inspection and rebuild of a Rav4 front Tripod joint. At the end of the video I also cover how to refit the Tripod's rubber boot correctly using the steel type compression bands - not cable ties! This is another Drive Train task I cover with my Automotive students and is one which is done when diagnosing abnormal noises from vehicles drive trains. Tripod joints can be found on most modern cars, ATV's both rido on and side-by-side too - All of Yamaha's Farm type quad bikes have these and so too do the Yamaha Rhinos and Vikings. They do wear out, especially on the ATVs & contamination of the grease will greatly accelerate the wearing process. Any questions then just add them to the comments section below & I'll do my best to get back to you soon... Andy Mechanic
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This video shows how to disassemble, inspect and reassemble a Constant Velocity (CV or Birfield) Joint. If we can ever assist you in any of your off-road needs log on to or call us at 801-805-6644.
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Diagnosing a vibration on the 2013 GR STI experienced during acceleration (load) at near freeway speeds
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inner CV joint I can wiggle it around in the trans up/down + side to side Honda Fit 2016
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Hey everyone! If you’ve ever experienced the rear end of your s2000 vibrating pretty violently on hard acceleration there is a good chance that your driver’s side CV bucket is the culprit. Depending on how severe the issue is swapping the buckets could completely solve the vibration issues or dramatically reduce them. Today I’m going to show you my preferred method for swapping the CV buckets from side to side in an effort to remove that pesky vibration. Note: There are several ways to do this procedure but this is the one that I personally find to be the most time and effort efficient. Tools necessary: - Impact Gun (highly suggested) - 14mm, 17mm socket (3/8" ideal) - 3/8" Universal joint (highly suggested) - 14mm wrench - 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrench - Needle nose pliers - CV grease - Paper/Shop towels - Ball Joint Separator () - Cotter pins - Jack & jack stands Steps 1. The first thing you want to do is get the rear of the car on jackstands and remove the wheels. Once the car is on jackstands you can remove the parking brake. 2. In order to get enough clearance to remove the buckets easily you need to pop the lower ball joint on both rear wheel knuckles. Bend and wiggle the cotter pin to remove it. Remove the castle nut using a 17mm socket and impact gun. Lastly, use a ball joint separator tool to pop the ball joint out of place. 3. With the ball joints removed use an impact gun and a 14mm socket to remove the 6 bolts on each side that hold the axle to the differential. Find a position where you can access one of the bolts very well and then just spin the axles to move the bolts into place. 4. Use a set of straight needle nose pliers to undo the clamps holding the cv boots onto each cv bucket. 5. Now it is time to remove the cv buckets from the cv joint. Take the cv joint out of the differential by tugging on the axle and gently pushing the wheel knuckle away with your foot. Now pull the cv boot off the bucket and carefully remove the cv bucket from the cv joint. As you remove the bucket it is pretty likely that some cv grease is going to fall so make sure you’re not directly under it. 6. Once you have the cv buckets removed you can inspect them for pitting. What you’ll likely notice is that the driver’s side bucket has darker grease, which is caused by the metal shavings contaminating the grease. Use a paper towel or a shop towel to remove the cv grease from both of the buckets. Once the grease is removed you should be able to see damage on the driver’s side bucket where the tripod joint bearings of the cv joint sit. If you inspect the passenger’s side bucket you shouldn’t see any of this damage. By swapping the cv buckets from side to side you are letting the driver’s side tripod joint bearings sit on a new surface. Once you’re ready to put things back together pack the cv buckets with new cv grease. Make sure that you keep track of each cv bucket so you know which one is the left and right side and you don’t have to do this process all over again! 7. Now you’re ready to install the cv buckets. Carefully install the cv joint tripod into the swapped cv buckets and slip the cv boot over the bucket. If one of the tripod joint bearings fell onto the ground like mine did, make sure you wipe off any contaminants and put it back onto the tripod joint correctly, they should only fit one of two ways. Tug on the axle and gently push on the wheel knuckle to allow for clearance to insert the axle back into the differential. 8. With the axles in place use a paper towel or shop towel to wipe away any extra cv grease. Once everything looks clean use a set of straight needle nose pliers to tighten the clamps holding the cv boots to onto each cv bucket. 9. Then use a 14mm socket and wrench to tighten the 6 bolts on each side that hold the axles to the differential. I’ve found that it is easiest to lodge the wrench against the car to keep the axles from spinning. Another option is to use the parking brake but you will find yourself engaging and disengaging it over and over again as you move the axles to reach the bolts. Torque the driveshaft bolts to 61 ft-lbs. 10. With the axles in place the last thing to do is to secure the lower ball joint on each rear lower control arm. This can be a bit tricky because as you tighten the castle nut it will have a tendency to spin unless the ball joint is under pressure. What I found easiest was to use a c-clamp to squeeze the ball joint to the rear lower control arm. Torque the lower ball joint castle nut to 51-58 ft-lbs. Once the castle nut is torqued insert a new cotter pin in place. 11. Re engage the parking brake, reinstall the rear wheels, lower the car back down to the ground, and hopefully enjoy your now vibration free car. If the car still has vibrations on acceleration you should look into half shaft spacers for the ultimate fix.
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What is the difference between tripod cv-joint and original one with ball-bearings? How to lubricate tripod (outer) cv-joint? Why grease for outer cv-joint can injure needle bearing of tripod cv-joint? Alex Rush will answer on all your questions!
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In this video I show you simple step's on how to re-grease a cv axle for a Honda or any other front wheel drive vehicle. 🛒Shop This Video: 👕Nthefastlane Merch: 📧Join Nthefastlane's E-mailing List (No Spam): 📑Auto Repair Service Manual Downloads: 🛒Nthefastlane's Amazon Store🛒 🚨 NTHEFASTLANE'S TOP PICKS 🚨 LED Headlight Bulbs: Brake Pads & Rotors: Radar/Laser Detector: Car & Truck Remotes: Subwoofer Audio: Car Stereo System: Car Audio Amplifier: Video Editor I Use: Video Editor I Use: Learning to be a mechanic can help you save a lot of money. Auto repair shops can charge you a fortune and not even give a quality repair sometimes. That's why I put these auto repair videos together. Folks like you need simple, easy steps to make sure the job gets done right. "DON'T FORGET TO CLICK THE "🔔" AT THE (TOP RIGHT) CORNER OF YOUTUBE TO BE NOTIFIED OF MY NEW UPLOADS" DON'T MISS OUT ON NEWLY UPLOADED VIDEOS! Website: Forum: Troubleshooting Guide: Honda Database: Facebook: Instagram: Twitter: (Honda Torque Specs App For Android) LINK: Shop Automotive Tools,Jewelry & Apparel NOCO Genius Chargers & Jump Starters *As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. (Dontate To Nthefastlane) If "NTHEFASTLANE" has helped you in anyway, please, consider giving by using "One of these options" below. Greatly appreciated! Option 1# Help Support My Channel With Paypal Option 2# Help Support My Channel With Patreon Due to factors beyond the control of NTHEFASTLANE, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. Nthefastlane assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. NTHEFASTLANE recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of NTHEFASTLANE , no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not NTHEFASTLANE. #CVAxle #GreaseAxle #Nthefastlane
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Hey everyone. Let’s talk about worn inner CV buckets. If your car has a vibration only on acceleration that gets worse with speed there is a good chance that you have worn inner CV buckets. Let me illustrate this common problem with my old set of worn axles. Here is an axle from my S2000 club racer . This is the side that connects to the wheel and this is the side that connects to the differential. Each axle has two CV joints or constant velocity joints and their purpose is simply to maintain constant rotational speed as the angle of the joint changes. The inner CV joint has this tripod joint and each leg of the tripod has a bearing. The bearings ride along the inner CV bucket walls. Over time these bearings will start to create a groove in the CV bucket walls. This groove becomes a problem when the ride height changes since the tripod joint will sit at a different depth inside the CV bucket. In this new position, it is possible for the bearings to move in and out of the groove and eventually cause pitting on the CV bucket. This is why people commonly experience this problem after lowering their car. I suspect that this can also happen over time as springs settle and bushings wear. The good news is that there are several ways to fix this problem. 1. The most common solution is to install half shaft spacers. These spacers sit between the CV bucket and the differential and force the tripod joint deeper inside the bucket so the bearings sit in the groove that they used to sit in. 2. Another common solution is to swap the CV buckets from left to right and vice versa. For whatever reason the pitting first occurs on the driver’s side CV bucket so it is possible that the passenger side CV bucket can still be in good condition when symptoms first arise. Swapping the CV buckets allows the bearings to sit on a fresh surface. 3. The last option is to replace the axles entirely. I only recommend this option for the most severe cases of vibrations. I ended up having to do this on my CR with 140,000 miles after I was unable to fix the vibrations after installing half shaft spacers and performing the CV bucket swap. I swapped in a used set of low mileage axles and the problem went away immediately. To give you an idea of how bad the vibrations were I was unable to drive more than 60mph on the highway, it was terrible (lol). I hope this video clarifies this issue for s2000 owners out there. If you’ve solved this problem yourself, comment down below with the solution that worked out for you.
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Short informational video Here is another video about CV Axles Link to CV axle Link Tips for ordering auto parts on Amazon.
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Bad Inner CV Joint VW Golf 5 variant, manual gearbox type JCR. Špatné vnitřní klouby hřídelí, převodovka JRC na VW Golf Variant 1,9 TDI 77 Kw motor BLS. It turns out that when the vehicle is lightened and the gas is added, the vibrations are heard. Projevuje se tím že když se při jízdě vozidlo nadlehčí a přidá se plyn, tak jsou slyšet vibrace.
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Oops, Axle and Ball Joint Replacement Sorry I missed you last week, I had this video half done and didn't get a chance to finish. Well we have our 1990 Accord again, I'm getting some mileage out of this one but I don't mind cause there are still quite a few of these on the road and a few of you have claimed ownership to one of these 4th generation Accords, so enjoy. A couple of things to note, I could do a video on taking out the wishbone bolt alone, I've run into a few problems here such as a rusted bolt that won't come out of it's bushing as one example, perhaps future videos will show how to overcome this problem. I thought this one went together well despite the fact that you might be getting sick of Honda Accords, I still have more from other makes that I haven't edited or posted yet. I have more to this video as well that may show up in DVD form at one point, YouTube only gives me 10min to work with but I think that is enough to get you started and not lose interest. Perhaps you could help by submitting questions in the form of text responses or what I would really like is a video response to something I've put out there, that would be great. Visit me at Visit EricTheCarGuy Forum Visit my Facebook Page: Stay dirty ETCG Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information.  EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video.  Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result.  Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.
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Ok so i thought this noise i'm getting was the gearbox, turns out it might be the NS inner CV joint playing up. I kinda hope so as this is something i can fix myself
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This video is mainly an informational video. In this video I have a great example of a CV axle with a worn inner joint that caused a vibration upon acceleration. I take the inner joint apart and show what happened to the inner joint and explain how a worn inner CV axle joint can cause a vibration upon acceleration. Note: While it is very common for a worn inner CV axle joint to cause a vibration upon acceleration you need to keep in mind that this is not the only thing that can cause this symptom. You will need to properly diagnose your vehicle before performing a repair. Below is a link to a video that will give you SOME information to help you in diagnosing a vibration upon acceleration. (while this video has great information, it may not have ALL the information you need to properly diagnose your vehicle.) Here is the link to that video: Also, the explanation of how an electric motor can slow a vehicle down was just a superficial explanation. Of coarse it was not the purpose of the video to go into depth about that. Also at about the 1:00 mark I mention that the electric motor slows the vehicle but I did it in a way that may seem like I said the motor uses the brake rotors to slow the vehicle down. What I was trying to say is that the motor, not the brakes, slow the vehicle. DISCLAIMER Barbour's Auto Help is not responsible for any damage or personal injury incurred in the process of performing any auto repairs done by you the viewer. Automotive repair is extremely dangerous. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. It is the viewers responsibility to verify all information and procedures as outlined in YOUR REPAIR MANUAL AND OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR VEHICLE. Owning and using a repair manual suited for your vehicle is essential for correctly and safely performing ANY repair to your vehicle. Always wear safety glasses and heed all instructions for use applicable to any piece of equipment you may use. Due to circumstances out of the control of Barbours Auto Help, Barbours Auto Help makes no guarantee that by the use of the information given in this video a quality repair will be made. Barbour'sAutoHelp makes no guarantee that the information provided is totally complete, syncronized and accurate. Verify everything using an appropriate repair manual. Follow the repair manual over this videos content. You can do it. Do it right and do it safely.
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When something on your car breaks, no one WANTS to spend lots of money just to get it working again. There are always cheaper options than buying parts from the dealership. If you can find the OEM part number, you can usually find it for a bit cheaper online, but it still isn’t cheap. The axles on my Honda started to click on me and I had them replaced with a set of cheap aftermarkets. OEM axles for my car are $1100 for the pair, which is insane. The cheap aftermarket ones go for less than $150, but you will be going through them like gasoline; they won’t last. I’ve gone through 4 cheap sets and these are still clicking on me. I still don’t want to buy OEM ones since they’re still stupidly priced and do not include a warranty, which is why I bought these new hand-built axles from RAXLES. Coming in at HALF the price for BETTER quality axles with a LIFETIME warrnty, its a no brainer. Taken directly from their website, “We were the first company to use new CV joints exclusively on every CV axle we sell. Our goal is to become first in the nation when it comes to Original Equipment quality CV axles and joints. Not only are we a global supplier of the best CV axles in the industry, to the top dealerships, auto repair shops, auto parts stores, and racing teams, we also sell directly to the consumer. If you want the finest CV axles on the market, we invite you to find out more.” You can also purchased ‘built’ axles which are rated for more power than stock. If your vehicle is producing more power than stock, it wouldn’t be a bad idea to get upgraded axles to reliably withstand the beating you will be giving them. As for the install, the tools I used can be found below, and the torque specs can be found below that. ///// LINKS TO PRODUCTS👇 ///// RAXLES Website ▶︎ OTC Front End Kit (Pullers) ▶︎ Sunex 12-Point Nut Axle Socket Set ▶︎ 1/2” Torque Wrench (250 ft-lbs) ▶︎ OTC Pry Bars ▶︎ Gearwrench Pliers Set ▶︎ Gearwrench Hook & Pick Set ▶︎ Ball Peen Hammer Set ▶︎ Copper Antiseize ▶︎ Gearwrench Ratchet Set ▶︎ Genius 1/2” Impact Socket ▶︎ Punch Set ▶︎ DeWalt Cordless Impact Driver ▶︎ Camera Used for this Video ▶︎ ///// TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS 👇 ///// Axle Nut - 242 ft-lbs. Upper Damper Fork Bolt - 36 ft-lbs. Lower Damper Fork Nut - 47 ft-lbs. Upper Ball Joint Nut - 35 ft-lbs. Lower Ball Joint Nut - 62 ft-lbs. Outer Tie Rod Nut - 40 ft-lbs. Lug Nut - 80 ft-lbs. ///// BECOME ONE OF THE BOYS BY FOLLOWING MY 👇 ///// YouTube Channel ▶︎ Instagram ▶︎ Facebook Page ▶︎ ///// YOU CAN SEND ME STUFF HERE 👇 ///// MILAN MASTRACCI PO BOX 30075 TOWN SQ. PO FONTHILL, ONTARIO, CANADA L0S 1E3 If you have any additional questions, feel free to send me an email at milanmastracci@. Be sure to tag me on Instagram @milmast so I can see what you guys are up to as well. Thank you so much for watching!!
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Your CV Axle connects your wheels to the transmission, which allows your car to drive. In other words, they're important. So it's even more important that you understand common CV Axle issues, and how to identify them. We're here to help you learn all about CV axles, and know when you're in need of a repair or replacement. For more helpful advice, visit: Website: Twitter: Instagram: Facebook:
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In this video I'll be diagnosing a vibration issue on my 05 Honda Odyssey. This van has always had somewhat of a vibration upon acceleration since the day we bought it. (It was used by the way). Over time the symptom has become more pronounced and noticeable. The road speed at which it would vibrate or wobble was from 60mph to 70mph. The wobbling would only happen under acceleration. Once you would let your foot off the gas the wobbling would immediately go away. Keep in mind as you watch this video that I only go over, what I have found to be, the usual suspects for this symptom. Its been my experience that a worn CV axle is the #1 cause of this followed by a worn wheel bearing and then tie rod ends. This symptom can also be caused by something internal in the transmission and possibly the engine too. This is not a comprehensive video on this subject but its bound to help a ton of people. I may not have covered the cause of your vibration in this video. If you do not have confidence in you ability to properly diagnose your vehicle then you can always have a pro look at it. And by the way a lot of what is shown in this video requires experience to be able to interpret correctly. Here is a link to the video of me replacing the cv axles. Good luck on your endeavors! !!!!WARNING!!!! Repair your vehicle at your own risk. While this channel will always strive to give you the most accurate information regarding automotive repair it would be foolish to assume that by watching a 5-30 minute video you too will be able to repair your vehicle without any errors or risk to your safety or risk to others safety. Costly mistakes can and will happen. When performing automotive repairs there is a high risk of personal injury. There is also a high risk for EXTREME frustration. There is also a risk of damaging your vehicle. This channel assumes no responsibility or liability for any personal injury or property damage that may take place using the information found in this channels videos. It is absolutely imperative that you the viewer, and performer of said repairs, receive as much education concerning automotive repair and particularly the repair you are considering performing. While the videos featured on this channel do go into detail about particular repairs this channel does not claim that the information provided in said videos are 100% complete and accurate. YOU MUST HAVE A REPUTABLE REPAIR MANUAL FOR THE VEHICLE THAT YOU PLAN TO WORK ON THAT CONTAINS THE INFORMATION YOU NEED TO PROPERLY REPAIR SAID VEHICLE. Follow all repair procedures as outlined in your repair manual. Compare the information in your manual with the information in this channels videos. Follow your repair manual over this channels videos. Follow all safety instructions and warnings found in your manual. Also, read and follow the instructions for any piece of equipment, chemical, or tool that you may use in any repair. Also, check out the owners manual for the vehicle you are working on. There is a lot of good, important, and helpful information that can be found in it. Finally, above all, do everything you can to keep yourself safe. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES. WEAR IMPERMIABLE GLOVES. UNDERSTAND THE CHEMICALS YOU WILL BE EXPOSED TO AND GUARD YOURSELF FROM THEM. Note: Even the most educated, seasoned, and talented technicians, or mechanics, are still subject to personal injury and property damage while performing automotive repair. I say again, use the information found in this channels videos at your own risk. Repair your vehicle at your own risk. Music by: Zombie Rock by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license () Artist: Created with MAGIX Movie Edit Pro 2016 I created this video with the YouTube Video Editor ()
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See the amount of play and the axle before and after. Also note the other things to check if you have a vibration in the steering wheel, like the tie rod and bearing. I read some play in the axle may be normal, but mine had lots of play before, and none now, and the vibration and noise is gone after axle replacement. Not sure if this could have been fixed without replacing the axle.
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In this video I cover how to diagnose a worn CV axle or CV joint on a front wheel drive car. My car is a MK4 VW Jetta, but it applies to almost any front wheel drive vehicle. In short, it's a clicking or popping noise coming from your axles while slowly rolling or decelerating. In the first half of my video I cover a worn axle verbally, and in the second half I take my car for a drive so you can hear what it sounds like. If you'd like to skip straight to the sound, fast forward to around 2:45. Keep an eye out for my next video which will be the installation of the CV axles! Please leave any comments or suggestions below, and don't forget to subscribe if you enjoy my videos!
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In this video we show you the symptoms of a bad inner CV joint on a 2006 Focus. Feel free to ask questions, comment and subscribe.
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